Chablis gets a bad rap. Its name is used on white wine that is about as far from real Chablis as diesel fuel is from Chanel No. 5 and has, as this writer describes, negative connotations formed in the 1970s. As my friend Brian once observed during a period when we were experimenting with variations on the martini theme, my tastes run more toward the savory than the sweet, so it’s not much of a surprise that I like Chablis – the genuine item, please; the mislabeled jug wine, not so much.
“Real” Chablis is described as “dry and fruity, pale gold with greenish hues, reminiscent of citrus (lemon or grapefruit) and small pleasant touches of fern or coriander, with mineral notes.” It’s the mineral notes, sometimes even described as metallic, that appeal to me. Having had a good glass of Chablis from time to time, I find it a refreshing change from the more lush styles of white wine – though I like a good California chardonnay (just don’t get too carried away with the oak).
After reading this article I found a bottle of 2007 Joseph Drouhin Chablis (not premier cru, but, oh well). Now all we need is some good shellfish and the time to enjoy them both.